This was published 12 years ago
Dining on the ascendant
A new generation leads restaurant evolution in the Blue Mountains.
By Scott Bolles
When the temperature drops it usually ushers in good times for Blue Mountains diners. Yet many restaurateurs in this scenic wonderland, located within striking distance of Australia's largest city, claim last winter was one of the toughest seasons in memory.
Rather than sit back and complain, a new generation is shaking up a hospitality market with a reputation for being conservative and slow moving.
Peak season ... Paragon Cafe's Robyn Parker.Credit: Steven Siewert
Businesswoman Huong Nguyen says it's time for a fresh approach. ''You can't rely on Yulefest forever, it has become a bit tired,'' she says.
She has taken a long-term view and invested heavily in the Blue Mountains. Last year she and her fellow investors snapped up Lilianfels Hotel, in Katoomba, for a cool $21 million, adding to another of their huge investments, the redevelopment of the Hydro Majestic Hotel at Medlow Bath.
David Nemeth and Pauline Hird at Nineteen23.Credit: Steven Siewert
When the first stage of the Hydro Majestic opens next year, it will include a cafe ''that'll showcase regional produce''. While holding on to the lofty standards at Lilianfels' hatted fine-dining restaurant, Darley's, Nguyen is also aggressively pursuing new, more accessible operations. Next year a wine and tapas eatery will open in the ''Wendy House'', located near the pool in Lilianfels' garden. Nguyen says the venue will be pitched at the mid-market and will open to the public.
''The problem with the Blue Mountains is you either have to eat at a cheap cafe or somewhere really expensive,'' says chef David Nemeth, who cut his teeth at Sydney restaurants including Boathouse on Blackwattle Bay and Fix St James, before opening Nineteen23 at Wentworth Falls in July.
Nemeth and his partner Pauline Hird opened the restaurant, in the heritage-listed Silvermere guesthouse, with price in mind. ''We offer a set-price option at $50 a head, it ends up being six or seven courses,'' Nemeth says.
The menu at Nineteen23 includes dishes such as rack of pork with cabbage and fennel coleslaw and honey and lavender ice-cream made from lavender grown in the guesthouse's cold-climate gardens.
Solitary's Sebastian Molloy.Credit: Steven Siewert
The lunge towards the mid-market is also evident with other new venues across the region. Leura Garage opened in April with a funky, urban design in the space of a former garage on Railway Parade, Leura. The menu includes pizza and Mediterranean-style share plates. It's busier than pit lane during the Bathurst 1000.
Solitary, on scenic Cliff Drive between Leura and Katoomba, has also brought new blood to the area. Sebastian Molloy, a chef with Rockpool and Aria on his CV, recently bought the restaurant.
''We want to push to get the chef hats back at Solitary,'' Molloy says. He wants to ''add a bit of wow factor'' while remaining price conscious, delivering mains at about the $30 mark.
Molloy also has long-term plans to up the game for Solitary's kiosk.
Rather than sit back and complain, a new generation is shaking up a hospitality market with a reputation for being conservative and slow moving.
''I'd like to activate the front lawn, make it a great spot for bushwalkers. Concentrate on doing the small things well, like making our own syrups for milkshakes,'' he says.
Robyn Parker has been in love with the Paragon Cafe in Katoomba since holidaying in the Blue Mountains as a 10-year-old. Nearly 40 years on, Parker realised her dream in May when she bought the iconic venue.
She has spent the past six months upgrading it. In addition to its cafe, she has opened a cocktail bar and reopened an on-site chocolate factory, which stopped operating a couple of years ago.
Parker has even bigger plans in store for the grand dame of Katoomba: ''We're working towards the Paragon's centenary in 2016. I want to get the bakery up and running again and the restaurant, which hasn't been used on a regular basis since the 1950s.''
Parker echoes the sentiments of many operators in the area with her frustration at delays caused by lingering work widening the roads ferrying traffic up and down from Sydney and its affect on travelling time and tourism.
Nemeth says the market is also extremely volatile. ''When we had some small bushfires the cancellations came in,'' he says.
Roadwork should be completed by next year. And restaurateurs pinpoint the upgrading of accommodation as another positive sign.
As well as the ongoing Hydro Majestic redevelopment, Nguyen confirmed Lilianfels has DA approval to build more rooms. A $10 million upgrade of the Fairmont Resort will include a new-look Embers Bar by the end of the next January and its new Sublime Lounge and Bar has already kicked off serving high tea.
Fairmont recruited new executive chef Rebecca Kaye, who has worked in London restaurants The Ivy and Caprice.
Parker maintains one trend has emerged stronger than any other in the Blue Mountains this year. ''It's pretty clear we're going through a generational change,'' she says.